MC Raven Ride Report 34 - Sea of Cortez to the Pacific in One Swell Foop

I spent most of the ride to Loreto kicking myself for not just staying a little longer and getting to know Susan better. Nice beach, great views and wildlife, friendly woman - why was I in such a big hurry?

Without going into Loreto proper I filled my tank and turned off the highway to go visit the Mission San Xavier. According to the Lonely Planet guide, the mission is one of the oldest in Baja and boasts a 300-year old olive tree so, I headed that way.

After about 4-miles, the road turned from asphalt to dirt and large cobblestones. Then, headed straight up a hill. The front tire caught a rock at the wrong angle and down I went. Oh well, start unloading and try to pick it up.

Soon, a van full of tourists came along and helped me pick up the bike. I reloaded and made my way up the slope. A tough climb but I made it. After the dirt/cobble section, the road curves then, follows a narrow shelf along the cliffside. In places that road had collapsed and was down to one very thin 'lane'.

Reaching the top of the cliff, I continued along as the road followed a small river. Where the river crossed the road were washes (vados) that were made of cement rather than asphalt. Growing on the surface of that cement was a thick, slimmy, slippery, black or green algae. I made it through the first vado (a short crossing) but felt my back tire break loose so, I slowed down to 5-8mph for the next one.

Just like trying to walk on glass with Vaseline smeared on it. Bike went down again: it, and I slid through the wash with a great splashing of water (I wish someone had been there to video that moment). Soon, the same van of tourists came along and picked Raven up again then sped away. I guess they'd had enough with rescuing fallen bikers.

I tried crossing 3 more vados and fell each time. Each time, someone came along and helped pick up the bike again. Eventually, someone asked the obvious question "How are you going to get back down again?" "I was going to continue on over to the main highway and Cuidad Insurgentes" I answered. "This road doesn't continue after the mission."

I decided I really didn't want to see the 300-year old olive tree after all. I was pissed off, wet, depressed and my bike had many new dents to the saddlebags and scratches on the crashbars. How, indeed, am I going to get back?
Before attempting to cross down the vado, I walked through the water and scuffed my feet. Trying to find the best traction. Turns out that (in some cases anyway) the algae doesn't grow as thickly along the upslope edge of the wash. The first 6-inhes or so is almost algae free.

Going slower than walking pace with my feet out like outriggers I was able to cross the vados without falling. Passed the cliff with the missing lane to the top of the incredibly steep cobblestone dirt road. Right there, near the top of the dirt section, the front wheel found a rut that trapped the tire and down went the bike again!

Earlier, while we were talking, Susan told me that she has a motorcycle but doesn't ride it anymore. She'd dropped it by locking up the brakes in her parking space and it fell down. The experience frightened and intimidated her into quitting riding. "Don't worry about that." I told her. "Everyone drops their bike sometimes. I drop mine twice a month: no big deal." I'd just dropped mine 6 or 7 times in 2-hours! It was a very big deal to me! I'm sorry for my superior attitude Susan. I should have stayed and gotten to know you better.

This time I actually went into Loreto to buy some agua purificata and try to find a bookstore where I could buy a Spanish/English dictionary. Loreto is a pretty town with cobblestone streets (I know where they got the stones) and a malecon by the bayside.

I found the bookstore, refilled my tank, got water and headed out of there.

After Loreto Highway Mex 1 heads up into the desert as it crossed Baja to the Pacific side. Right in the middle is Cuidad Insurgentes and just south of there is Cuidad Constitution. both ugly, dusty cities with no reason to be there except as a place to refill your tank. So, I opted to continue on to Magdalena Bay - where the humpback whales come each year.

As it heads across Baja, Mex 1 runs straight east/west so, I spent the entire day riding right into the sun. By the time I arrived at San Carlos, I was nearly blind from the sun and sweat. It was just getting dark when I arrived. Too late in the year for whale watching. Hotel (Brannigan I think) was nice with good wifi and, only $30 per night.

I was dirty, muddy, sweaty, feeling sorry for myself and crabby.

I should have stayed and gotten to know Susan better. Turns out, meeting Susan was the highlight of my day too.