MC Raven Ride Report 31 - Coco's Corners

Ranking in my mind right up there with Deadhorse, AK is Coco's Corner. I've seen Coco's Corner in the movies (Dust to Glory - check it out on Netflix), read about Coco's Corner in blogs and books and heard other long distance riders talking about it. Now, I'm here!

The highway from San Quintin was smooth, easy riding through a forest of trees right out of a Dr. Seuss book. I'd always suspected he was seeing things when he drew these trees - now I know where he got the idea. The trees are called Cirios and this is the only place in the world where they grow. Check 'em out in the pictures below. The tall cactuses that look like saguaros aren't. They're another unique-to-this-part-of the-world plant called Cardon cactus.

Once you get out of the towns it's harder to find gas. Don't despair though. Entrepreneurial Mexicans will find a way. Alongside the highway you'll see a pickup truck and stand selling gas. I topped up my tank (not knowing when I'd find more). Gas seems just fine - bike running without a problem. Was 30% higher priced than in town though. Just like Alaska! You gotta pay for the transportation.

I had lunch along the highway at a little place in Chapala, just at the turnoff to Coco's Corner. Chorizo con huevos with beans and fries: $80 pesos. That's pretty high (about $5.00 US). I need to learn to negotiate more.

The road to Coco's Corner is an "Improved (graded dirt) road." Not great by US standards, a major highway to San Felipe and Gonzaga Bay. It is being improved now; heavy earth movers and road graders were working on the Sunday I rode in. Lot's of large truck traffic. Hard to believe that an 18-wheeler makes it over the road I struggled with on Raven.

I slipped up to 40mph for a while- big mistake - I bottomed out on a depression that stretched across the road and broke off my rear mini-fender/mud guard. Not much of a problem now but, when I'm in Central America during the rainy season I'm gonna miss that little fender.

So, I arrived at Coco's Corner and was able to spend the day getting to know Coco. Coco the man is one of those larger-than-life characters. He's lost both his legs to diabetes but still manages to run his business, his world, from a wheelchair. Ask him and, he can tell you to within an hour how long he's been here.

Walking around his place I could hear him talking with drivers who'd stopped to visit or buy coffee or sodas or snacks. His voice would start out low then swell to a crescendo as his story telling became more animated.

Though rustic, Coco's Corner is scrupulously clean with all litter picked up and everything in it's place. Camping is free with the price of a beer and, if they're available, so are one of his 4 campers.
Coco's Corner is a living piece of folk art. He's taken the materials available: beer cans, desert plants, cast away auto parts, and made a work of art out of it. Who knows, maybe in the future, my mudguard will show up here and be featured in the art.

Remember Steve Boozer who I met at Coyote Cal's? Well, I put his sticker somewhere in this picture. See if you can find it.



Remember 'Steve Rides the World' that I met on the Oregon coast? Well, I put his sticker on this cab.  See if you can find it.

I'm really glad I braved the road and came here.

I left Coco's Corner early in the morning (0700). He and his family were getting ready to make a supply run to Ensenada. A long drive. Luckily for me, I was able to get him to pose for some photographs: by himself and with his daughter, before I left. In truth, all I had to do was ask. Coco likes being a celebrity and is more than happy to do the smile and wave for the paparazzo.

The road back to the highway hadn't improved overnight. My speed dropped though. It took about an hour to cover the 12 or so miles. No drama, no further breakage.

By 1030 or so, I'd arrived at Bahia de Los Angeles: a stunningly beautiful bay protected by barrier islands, blue green water, pelicans, and cormorants sunning themselves and fish (probably mullet) leaping out of the water.

I'm set up in a palapa at Archelon's EcoCamping (Gloria Manager). $8 US/night for the palapa - all the Sun and beach you could want.

I'd probably stay a week but, I'm running out of cash and the nearest ATM or bank is in Guerro Negro further down the peninsula.

In the States, I'd go months without using cash money. Here though, nobody (almost) uses a credit/debit card. This is a cash-only economy and, without access to an ATM , I'm lost.

I saved almost 100 pictures of this part of my trip. Obviously, I can't upload all of them. Someday, if you invite me to dinner, I'll be happy to bore the heck out of you with all these pics.